Finishing Signs

I've known for days that Fernie is my end point, but it was still a surprise on Friday afternoon when I rounded a corner to see a big 'Welcome to Fernie' sign.

I'm in Fernie!

Arriving Fernie, however, wasn't the end if the excitement. In the past 24 hours since arriving I have:
- gotten a big box for my bike from a store in town (and carried it nearly 2 miles back to my hotel),
- bought a 5$ thrift store suitcase for gear and stuff (and got it back to the hotel by strapping it to my bike)

In my hotel room I disassembled my bike and packed it into said box (took about 4 hours- I really hope it's safe for its travels...)

I explored a lovely train that runs pretty much through the center of town.

And 3 minutes into this trail ran across fresh bear scat. Still squishy!

Probably from this guy here. The one bear I actually photographed this trip,  with a river between us.

I also evacuated out of the hotel room for an hour for a fire alarm (a perfect time for dinner)
- and did laundry. Whew.

I'm now finishing the bottle of rum I've been sipping for the past week, watching bad cable tv, getting ready for the hot tub, and trying to figure out how I feel about heading home tomorrow.

Over the next few days after I get home I'll be adding in the posts my phone refused to upload, and add pics to all posts. I'll also add a wrap up post- after I process a bit. In short, this trip was fun, hard, stressful, nervewracking, and awesome.

Monday, Aug 22: It's Hot in the Lowlands!

I think today was pretty close to the kind of day I was expecting to have on this trip.

I got a late start leaving the hostel in Radium. I had the whole room to myself, and I actually, for the first time all trip, slept pretty well.
I had breakfast at a place down the street, wasted some time while packing, and finally got rolling in the late morning- 11 or so.
This was fine because today was a short day- 30 miles-ish, but it was a hot day- probably 90 degrees. Amazing how 5 days ago I was wearing all the warm clothes I had with me- wool socks, double fleece, long johns, and I was still cold, and now it's 90+. I think this means I should get an earlier start tomorrow so I'm not riding through the hottest part of the day...

Long boring roads and fun shadows to play with!

It was, however, a great day for gelato in Inverness. Can gelato count for lunch?

Just past Fairmont all the campgrounds on my map appeared to not exist in real life, which was mildly exciting. I stopped at Timbers Resort, which according to their roadside signs has cabins and room for RVs. Turns out they have room for tents too. (they also have showers, which are quickly becoming part of my favorite things.)

I'm set up on the lawn next to a cabin, which the owner has let me put my food in so animals don't get into it.  In this pic you can even see the picnic table I had dinner at, and the lawn furniture being used as a drying rack for my cycling clothes that I washed in the sink.

I would gave stayed in those chairs longer myself, but the mosquitos are hungry tonight.
Tomorrow I plan to go to Wasa, which I hear has a big warm lake and a great beach. If I leave earlier than today I should have lots of time in the afternoon for the lake- that's the goal!
Today I also reached the 300 mile mark for the trip. (300 miles! I love seeing these numbers add up!)

Thanks (big huge sloppy thanks) to everyone reading this and sending me notes and comments. It's really helped!!

Saturday, Aug 20: It's my final Mountain Pass!

Since I couldn't camp the previous day where intended, it pushed today forward a bit from previously thought, and I planned to go about 40 miles all the way to the hot springs, which seem like a great place to spend two days.

About 5 miles into the day I had another first- my first flat tire. Not just of this trip, I mean my first bike flat EVER! It happened to on a big long straight road stretch, with a wide shoulder, which was great. And it was a warm sunny day, also great. And I fixed it, so I was feeling pretty proud of myself (but it did take some time, since I'm pretty slow for my first flat, and really wanted to make sure I fixed it right). A couple miles later, my bike (which still needs a name...) clicked over 1000 miles since I bought it in late May. Yeah bike!!

When changing a flat, it's important to really search the tire to make sure what ever caused the flat isn't stuck in the tire just waiting to cause another. Sometimes it's pretty easy to find the culprit, especially when it's a 1/2 inch long metal chunk.

The ride was rolling and some down, along a river, through a valley, and no bears seen, which I was mainly glad about. A grizzly 15 feet away is a little close when I'm just on a bike.

And then the road started to climb, up my last mountain pass of this trip. Hill was steep in spots, weather was great (almost too hot, which beats too cold of a few days ago), and there were even a few turnouts with shade. (my last hot day climb was completely without shade, and in one car turnout I actually went from car to car sitting in the car shade. I'm sure some people thought I was nuts!)

At the top of my last pass, looking back the way I came.

I love these profiles at the top that show what you just came up. Makes me feel so accomplished!

 I also discovered that for long climbs (the only time riding I have an earphone in), an audiobook is better than music, even my 'Go! Go!' mix I made for this trip.  (Harry Potter is my book of choice lately.)

At the top of the pass (did I mention it's my last pass??) there was a lovely blue/green lake, with water so clear you could see the mossy logs at the bottom. 

The lake at the top of the pass. I look relieved, don't I?

I had plenty of time, and it was a perfect temp, so I lingered there about an hour before the descent (8 miles!!) to Radium Hot Springs. I'm staying here sat and sun nights, and will move on Monday morning.

I almost hit this guys as I was cruising down the hill after the pass... See the one on the right eyeing me?

Sat night after a shower (heaven) I walked into town for dinner, and even watched the Portland vs Vancouver soccer game on tv.

The hostel where I'm staying has a big porch with comfy chairs, and the temp after the sun went down was absolutely perfect, and I sat down there looking at the stars for a while. Also talked with another guest from calgary who belongs to a bike club that does an annual ride through the section I've just done. She's done it 11 times! I keep meeting people who have already done what I've done. It kills me a little when the section that almost did me in, they refer to as a 'nice ride'. I keep having to remind myself that it probably is a 'nice ride' when you have a sag wagon and aren't hauling your own gear!

I really need to weigh my bike and gear when I get home and before I unpack, people keep asking me how much it weighs and I'm getting quite curious. Anyone in Seattle have a scale I can borrow?

In Which a Little Day Becomes a Big Day

Today, Friday, the following happened:
- I left the hostel I stayed at last night (in castle mountain- great place) and nearly immediately my odometer clicked over the 200 mile mark for this trip. That's 200 fully loaded miles. Yippee!
- I then climbed up and over my 3rd (of 4) mountain passes.

I biked over the Continental Divide!!!   (I made random strangers take my picture!)

- This pass marked the following: moving from Banff National Park to Kootenay (my 3rd park), leaving Alberta and entering British Columbia, AND entering my 3rd watershed. That's right, last week the area water drained to the Arctic, this morning it drained to the Atlantic, and now it drains to the Pacific. You know what that means, geography lovers: I biked over the frickin' Continental Divide!!
- It's a lovely short day, so I stop for a salad and tea at the lodge at the top. Yum.
- I then make my way, quite leisurely like, to my campground for the night, arriving at 430 pm. To find it closed to tent camping, due to 5 over-active bears. Grizzly bears!!! Last night a bear was even sniffing round a tent, waking up the occupants. Ah.... That's why this entire campground looks totally deserted.

This is the warning notice at the campground- the map on the right shows the active bear area, which nearly exactly matches the campground map. Fun!

- I visit the campground host on the off chance the host is a young, single and cute guy with room to spare in his RV. The host turns out to be an elderly couple who tell me to keep moving. Only challenge is the next campground is around 40 MILES away. Did I mention it's 4:30 pm? And I'm on a bike averaging 10 mph... with frequent rest breaks...
- My map shows lodging of some sort about 16 miles away. I have no idea if it's a $500/night chalet, or a closed motel.
- Away I bike, thankful its largely downhill, or at least flatish and rolling.
- I skip past the sights I was planning on seeing tomorrow.
- I cycle past a bear. Oh dear, it's a grizzly. I do not stop for pictures.
- I come upon one if those big light up rolling construction signs on a trailer. I think to myself, "this trip will get even more interesting if the road is closed ahead!" And then I get closer...

The sign reads : "Caution: Wolves on Road." Seriously?

-I stop for a bit at the sign. Seriously. Everyone, Rangers and locals, talked to me about bears. No one mentioned wolves! I can't go back because of bears and there are wolves forward. Where am I?
- I cycle the next 10 miles wondering if wolves chase bikes like dogs do. Are they watching from the woods? Do they hunt in packs? But wolves are reclusive too...  I cycle more quickly, and keep checking my mirror for wolves chasing me down from behind, and keep looking ahead for bears. I'm thankful every time a car goes by and I feel less alone.
- Eventually I exit the wolf area. As I actually figured, no wolves were to be seen. I start to relax, and actually start noticing the sights. It's pretty here.
- And there's another roadside grizzly- this one's really close! Pedal pedal pedal.
- Moments like this I wish I was with another target- er, I mean cyclist.

I arrive at the mystery lodging. Cute little cabins, and they have vacancies! I wasn't really in the mood anymore to camp anyways, even if I wanted to cycle another 25 miles.

- Looong hot shower, clean clothes, dinner in the restaurant, with a beer. (So much for being the fearless rugged bike traveler.)
Tomorrow I either go 25 miles to the next campground or 40 and go all the way to the hot springs. Hmmm... I think the hot springs may win over camping in bear valley.

(Post Script- in retrospect, this day was really a turning point for me. It was this day, as I was looking for bears in front and watching for a wolf pack behind me, that I recognized the slight absurdity to the situation. (Bears and wolves on the same day?) Part of my brain was a little tense, and worried about how this day was going to end. At the same time, I was cracking myself up, and greatly amused by the whole thing. It was an odd split-brain moment, and allowed a new enjoyment of crazy situations I hadn't previously had on this trip.)

Rest Days in Lake Louise

Upon setting up camp in Lake Louise that first night I learn that in addition to my left foot getting wet, my Sleeping bag also got a bit wet. Hmmm.) Fortunately the Lake Louise campground has hot showers and excellent blow dryers. Heaven. 1 rest day in town has turned into 2, and I'm sooo glad I did.

It's a touristy town, but in a nice, manicured rather than overrun sort of way. There's good cheap wifi and Internet, an amazingly good bakery, and a visitor center you can sit in all day that has a good heater and  a very nice exhibit on the geology of the area. My kind of heaven!

It's kinda crazy how tired I am, but I was pretty tired when I started this trip, so I guess it makes sense that after the excitement of the first few days wore off, exhaustion would hit. As a result, I've spent a lot of time these two days figuring distances and coming up with a travel plan for the next week.

I've modified my original plans, and shortening my distances so I have more short days (including the days I arrive in an old mining town, and at hot springs- good planning there, I think!)

Lake Louise campground even has an electric fence around it to keep the bears out, so I've slept quite well.  The RV site next to the fenced in tent area doesn't have an electric fence, so they recommend you don't walk around at night by yourself, and that you carry a light, make noise if you do need to walk at night, that you stay out of the tall grass, etc.

I felt quite heavily laden with all my bags (4) when a couple brothers from NY on bikes showed up to share my campsite- they each only had 2 bags. Then I learned they didn't have a sleeping pad, stove, fuel, or much food. They must have been freezing last night (I was cold at times, and I have a 1.75 inch sleeping pad!), and they ate Peanut Butter and Jelly sandwiches for dinner and slices of bread for breakfast. I could probably travel with a bit less, but I'm not about to give up my sleeping pad, or eat mostly PB &J! (Am I getting old?)

View from the top of the nearby ski hill is great- they run the ski lift in the summer, but I didn't do much hiking at the top since you have to hike in groups- too many bears. Maybe a solo trip through this area wasn't the smartest move...

Sure is pretty, though.

They have a webcam too:  http://www.lakelouisegondola.com/webcams.php

Once I got to the top the clouds parted and I sat in the sun for at least an hour like a big, happy marmot. Ahhh.... Warmth. Remind me of this in a few days when I'm complaining about the heat after I drop a couple thousand feet in elevation!

This is the view from my seat at dinner- I forgo camp food and eat in the restaurant in town. Bonus, town is walking distance from the campground- it's fun to walk instead of bike!

So far, in the first 4 days I did about 140 miles, Jasper to Lake Louise. And did I mention the TWO mountain passes?? Next up, 9 days, two lesser passes, and 226 miles, and a lot of down and rolling flats. Whew.

Days 2-4

Days 2-4 are mixed. I learn the following:
- at 4am, everything sounds like a bear sniffing around outside the tent. From this night forward I resolve to sleep with the bear spray IN my tent, rather than leaving it on my bike. Rookie mistake, not to be made again.

- The toughest uphill climb will be on a cloudless sunny day... and heading over my first mountain pass on day 2 I also end up in an area with limited trees, and no shade. I actually sit in the shade of stopping cars at a turnout to eat my lunch.

- Hills never look as steep in a photo than they really are. It annoys me. Can you tell in the photo above that it's a long steep road? Humor me and say yes. I was averaging 3.5 mph going up. Thankfully I'm in Canada: 5.6 kph sounds better.

I enjoy going down for the most part- but that's also nerve-wracking. Steering is a little different on a fully loaded bike.

Pic is taken by Cindy- who biked at slower than her usual pace to bike with me for part of this day.

 Entering the Columbia Icefield area- I'm pretty excited.

At the visitor center- the family that takes this photo for me is really nice... and from the Seattle area.

The Icefield behind me extends way into the background and is much larger than what is actually seen here.

Day 4- it's cold. A little rain, the roads are really wet, my left shoe bootie leaks so while my right foot stays nice and dry, my left foot is cold and wet.

This smile is slightly forced. I don't stop often enough to eat because I'm cold most of the day.  I can't get the balance right of enough clothes to stay warm, without being overly dressed and too hot. Hmm... rookie again.

I am still amazed by the color of the lake.

And I find snow on the ground of pass #2.

I know I'm in the mountains, but it's still my summer vacation!

The First Day: Hills are Steep and Zeta makes friends!

This first day feels about a week long! I leave Jasper, and start heading south. The first couple miles are lovely, and then I turn off onto what I think is the old highway. The advantage is that there is a lot less traffic- it is quiet, wooded, and lovely. The disadvantage is it's a hill. A hill that goes up. Fortunately there are few cars to see me stop to catch my breath... which I do a lot.  An hour or two in I stop for a granola bar, and talk to a passing day cyclist who stops ask me questions. He's quite taken with the idea of cycle touring and has lots of questions and asks me for advice... and seems quite disappointed when I tell him I'm on the first hour of the first day of my first tour... and have no advice!

I ride on- past a rest stop where a family is eating peaches and I temporarily fantasize about stealing the peach from the youngest child (4 hours in and I'm already craving fresh fruit!). At a rest stop farther on a nice family gives me blueberries. Everyone is amazed to see a solo girl cyclist with a fully loaded bike, and the conversations bring me zero joy:
Standard comment/question: "You are amazing! Where are you biking from?"
Me: "I started in Jasper."
Them (said with disappointment): "Oh. Isn't Jasper that town just 10/20/30 miles away?"
Me: "Yes. It's the first day. Leave me alone."
I'm doubting myself a little and these conversations aren't helping me.

I ride past my first black bear on the side of the road- I'm glad a couple cars stop for picture so I use the cars as a barrier between me and the bear... I do not stop to take a picture... and on I ride.

Pretty water.

Pretty rocks.

I stop to camp at Honeymoon Lake, and camp near a couple families in an RV. Cindy and Barbara are biking- they each have kids and adult support riding in the RV. They feed me salmon and pasta and birthday cake!

Packing Packing (organizing) and Packing

What am I taking? A bunch of stuff. Not worried I'm forgetting anything, pretty sure I'm taking enough. Concerned I'm possibly taking too much?

This is all my stuff spread out, and ready to be packed:

FIRST AID KIT: Assorted band-aids and bandages, antiseptics, ibuprofen, antihistamine, ace bandage, anti-rash stuff, scissors, tweezers, gloves, wound cleaner stuff... I won't list it all here but it's extensive. I hope.

KITCHEN KIT: stove and fuel, lighter, bowl, spoon and fork, mug, pot, pot, spatula, ziplocs, sponge and soap, hand cleaner, drying cloth, cutting board/plate, knife.

OVERNIGHT CAMPING STUFF: tent, sleeping bag and pad, pillow, headlamp, and teddy bear.

TOILETRIES: toothbrush and toothpaste, brush, soap, shampoo, travel towel, insect repellent, sunscreen, tissue, hair ties, ibuprofen, toilet paper, ear plugs, etc.

CLOTHES: helmet and warm hat, sunglasses and bandana, cycling shorts and rain pants/jacket and non-cycling pants/shorts, cycling tops, non-cycling short sleeves and long sleeves and fleece top, bike shoes and non-bike shoes and sandals, cycling gloves and warm gloves, long underwear and regular underwear and socks and swimsuit. Fleece jacket too. It's cold at night.

BIKE REPAIR STUFF: tire pump, spare tubes, patch kit, tire irons, tire boots, multi-tool, spare chain master links, spoke wrench, spare spokes, duct tape, tie wraps, electrical tape, extra brake cable and shifter cable, spare brake pads, pedal wrench, oil, spare nuts and bolts.

BIKE STUFF: water bottles, reflective triangle and vest, bungee cords, lights, lock.

MISC FUN STUFF: camera/charger, phone/charger, journal and pens (and tape), binoculars, watch, fold up backpack for short hikes and stuff,  and a book (TBD- but all leaning towards travel narratives).

TRAVEL STUFF: wallet, passport, maps and notebook

And this all fits in 4 panniers and 1 handlebar bag. Actually all the stuff fits in 3 panniers- the 4th one is all food- I'm taking some hot chocolate and granola bars, oatmeal and a couple dinners. I'll buy a lot along the way.

Here's the bike, all packed up. It's heavy...

The plan in a little more detail...

 So I was a little vague before about my plan and my route. I'm not trying to be mysterious- I just keep changing my mind. Considering I really don't know what I'm undertaking, or what my daily mileage will be, I suppose that's normal.

Originally this was a very long post, because for the past several weeks I kept adding new route plan to it as I kept changing my mind, so as of a few minutes ago it had the 8 different plans listed. The plans included varying amounts of trains, busses, rental cars and included, at different times, 2 countries, 4 states, and ranged from 400 -1200 miles. I've recently simplified, and the actual new plan is this:

I'll take the train to Vancouver, BC where I'll spend the day, and then a different train to Jasper. When I arrive in Jasper I'll take the first hour to reassemble my bike (after taking it apart to stuff it in a train box).  I'll spend my first two days in Jasper to do a little biking, some hiking, and some general touristy stuff, then I'll start biking south through Banff, and then onto Glacier, Montana. I'll take the train home from East Glacier at the end of the month.

It seems so simple...